It definitely takes at least a certain kind of blind indifference to danger to catch a wave. For starters, you have to get into the sea, and it ‘s not a calm blue and green beach; it is the ocean. You have to find a dangerous sea, otherwise it wouldn’t be real surfing. And these are usually far away from your living rooms, and your teas, and your cakes.
(eat up quickly)
And it gets better.
You’ll end up alone, cold, tired, and generally miserable, amidst stings, bites, gashes, currents, whirlpools, not to mention the occasional fracture.
But every second is worth it.
‘Cause that pink wave of infatuation can take you a long way, albeit , some times, not where you are expecting it. And shit knows everyone falls on his face, maybe half the time. Maybe half the time.
It’s not necessary to be crazy in order to fall in love, but it certainly helps.
I don’t drink fight or fuck but these days Quentin
it’s only two out of those three that I don’t do
and I’ve fallen in love 6 7 8 9 10 times Quentin
so I don’t want to want to
but I still do
quentin – Anis Mojgani